From: "The Ghost Hunter"
I usually find I get better contrast with D-76 and finer grain than HC-110, I keep hc-110 around for quick non critical development. I use d-76 overall with most of my films,
From: firstname.lastname@example.org (Rick Schiller)
I just did a studio shoot with TMX in 120 to compare it in D76 1:1 and HC110. In the D76 the grain is micro-fine and looks even finer under a grain enlarger in the HC-110; but, in prints the grain looks slightly better in the D76. I would also give an edge in sharpness to the D76 and this was why I tried the HC110, hoping to get more sharpness. I shot both at ei 80 and saw no difference in film speed, though I did not measure with a densitometer. They both seem to exhibit approximately the same film curce. I see no advantage in using HC110 with TMX, unless the convenience of the HC110 concentrate is a concern. D76 is good stuff and probably the best compromise develeper, IMHO.
From: David DeWert
I've found that when i use shorter development times with t-max 100 in d-76 (3 to four minutes) i get very warm-toned negatives, almost brownish. whereas in my development with hc-110 i always get the same cold or neutral-toned negatives at all development times. this happens to me with both 120 roll and 4x5 sheet film.
Here is my question for the group: should i be shortening my development time when i want to reduce density in very bright areas, or should i use a less contrasty developer and a longer development time? wich developer should i use with t-max film, or is there something i can do to hc-110 or d-76 or tmax to make it less contrasty?
From: Jeffrey Novick
D-76 with Tmax100 is a great combination. In order to control contrast during development, shortening the time will give you less contrast, and, lengthening the time, more contrast. A good place to start with is the normal development time at 68 degrees listed by Kodak. However, many users of TMX shoot it at slower speeds, 50-80 ASA, and under develop it from 10-30%. This is something you have to experiment with to get the negatives to where you want them. Personally, I shoot it at 50, underdevelop 10-20%, and print with a condenser enlarger.
Another terrific developer is Ilfotech which gets very little air time on this newsgroup. I use this with TMX and Delta100 regularly with great results. Some people swear the grain is finer than D-76 with more edge sharpness. I don't know, I have a hard time seeing the grain with a grain focuser with either one!
From: email@example.com (F Jake)
HC-110 can be diluted in order to extend development times and/or control contrast...
From: firstname.lastname@example.org (cure)
Another thing to mention is that you can use HC-110 dilute 1:30 or more (from the stock sol'n, not from concentrate) to use as a compensating developer (fully supports shadow areas while greatly reducing high value densities). I usually use D-76 for normal work, but when I desire a very soft negative I use the HC-110 1:30. Development time is around 17 minutes at 68F and agitation is about 10 sec evey 4 or 5 minutes. Some testing should be done to get exact, reproducable results.
From: Eberhard.Funke@t-online.de (Eberhard Funke)
The development for a prolonged time with little agitation is interesting. I had been reading about that but never tried myself. I asssume that your film is immersed in the developer in a horizontal position (as apposed to sheet/tray). Did you ever observe those bromide streak which are mentioned in literature to occur occasionally under these circumstances (prolonged time, little to no agitation, horizontal position). This development theoretically should give a good tonal separation in the shadows and prevent on the other hand an overshooting of the highlights (compressed highlights). Did you see this? If that were correct then this were a highly interesting alternative to a 2 baths development. BTW I used HC 110 at a 1:63 dilution to get printable negatives from a high contrast lighting situation (8 ml HC110 + 500 ml water, development of 6 sheets TMY 4x5 with continous rotation for 7 minutes in a Jobo 2501 drum / 2509n reel)
From: email@example.com (FotoDave)
> i've found that when i use shorter development times with t-max 100 in d-76 (3 to four minutes) i get very warm-toned negatives, almost brownish. whereas in
If you get warm-toned negatives, it means that the negatives are physically underdeveloped because the time might be too short. If you were using D76 straight, you might want to try D76 1+1 and process longer.